A Stroll Around Tiananmen

Sunday 13 August

I awoke at 05.30 and looking out of the window there was just one bus crawling slowly down the road outside the hotel. Back to sleep and by 07.30 the road is teeming with traffic and pedestrians. Is it as manic as Russia?

We went for a stroll later in the morning. Our hotel is situated about ten minutes walk away from Tiananmen Square, so that was our obvious destination. As we wandered along wide pavements, cyclists were weaving in and out of the crocodile-lines of pedestrians. Crossing the road is fun again, watch for the green light and Go! There can be no hesitation here once you step off that kerb (similar to Russia), cars are out to get you. The main roads here are wide – mostly four lanes either way – so it’s a long way to cross. Policemen control the major intersections and about 100 cycles cross the road with the pedestrians every time the lights go green and you are frantically waved across by the man with a flag in the middle of the road. Then we discovered subways – absolutely teeming with people, but at least you get across the road alive! On our way back, there was a massive traffic jam, caused by about twenty buses all trying to get to one bus stop. I think they must talk about buses here as we talk about lorries on the M25!!!!! – and there must be one bus for every ten cars – and there’s thousands of cars. The buses are all single deckers and packed to capacity –so there’s much pushing and shoving just to get on!

Tiananmen Square is like Trafalgar Square ten times over. Its huge (perhaps we had been fooled by Red Square, which was so much smaller than we had anticipated) and today there were thousands of Chinese people (who are obviously also on their hols) walking and taking photos, squatting (not an English pastime), or selling their wares. Along one side is Mao Tse Tung’s mausoleum – instantly recognizable – and just in case we didn’t, his picture is on the wall. Government buildings and museums line the other sides. The history museum has a clock showing the countdown to the Beijing Olympics ticking away – just 726 days, 6 hours, 49 minutes and 37 seconds when we were there – I suppose we have a similar exhibition in London. There are also two large spectacular sculptures at the far end of the Square, which reminded me of the “Barricades” in the French Revolution. Our guided tour starts here tomorrow and it will be interesting to hear all about the area.

This morning was grey and misty early on, but the sun did try to shine for a short while later in the morning. When we returned from our stroll and went for brief refreshment in the bar about 15.00 the heavens opened and it’s still tipping down now (17.00). Its not cold – it was easily top 20’s when we were walking - but now its even thundering and lightning right overhead. This must be the Typhoon coming – Max, our guide joked about it in Vladivostok – but now it’s for real. There have obviously been problems for some members of the tour getting into Beijing Airport, as we are not meeting now till 18.00 to give everyone time to arrive. Perhaps it was a smart move to arrive a day early.

We met some of our new tour group tonight– they all flew from Manchester. There’s Avril and John from Eccleshall, near Stafford, who have no luggage until tomorrow, as somebody arrived ¾ hour late for the flight from Manchester to Frankfurt and their cases missed the connection to Beijing. This was made worse by the fact that they couldn’t carry any hand luggage due to the current ruling in the wake of the terrorist alert, so literally have with them what they stand up in. Then, all from the Manchester area - there’s mother and son - aged about 15 – June and Alan. And two families – one Sri Lankan, with two young sons aged about 5 and 7, and another of Trinidad ilk with son and daughter around 15 and 16. Apparently another family of 3 has been delayed until Tuesday (I wouldn’t be too happy about that) and two other people who appear to have been lost without trace.

We were taken to what was described as an “authentic” Chinese” restaurant. Nothing to look at from the front, but once you had wound your way through several dining rooms to the back, it opened out into a courtyard with rooms all around for dining. The building was very old and the room where we ate was originally the home of the concubine of the Finance Minister in the Qing Dynasty (fell in 1911). The main purpose of the meal was to eat Peking Duck, but first we were served a variety of dishes that we recognized from Laughing Buddha and other such South East London Chinese eateries: mandarin pork with steamed green vegetables, spicy chicken with peanuts (I am sure we have cashews – much more up market), sweet and sour fish – coral fish here, but trout or similar at home, mixed vegetables, spicy tofu, special fried rice, a meat variation of sesame prawns on toast – recognize the menu? Then came the duck which added pineapple and melon as well as the usual ingredients. It was all very delicious – a bit spicier than we usually have – lots of dried red chillies in some of the dishes. They also served sweeter dishes which we don’t usually have – custard style tarts, sweet pancakes with sesame seeds and lots of fresh fruit. (June liked the broccoli best!! How is she going to survive?) All was washed down with red or white wine, soft drinks and Chinese beer. But no tea!!! Colin was disappointed – so we had to have a pot of Jasmine tea when we got back to the hotel. And here we are in our room by 21.00! – must be one of the first nights we will be in bed before midnight. But understand we will be walking for several hours tomorrow as we see the sights, so need the rest.

We have wondered several times today, how all our fellow travelers in Russia were getting on getting home. We hope they all had a safe and trouble free journey.