No Fireworks, But Flying High

Sunday 5 November

We decided not to get up at 03.30 this morning to go back to the rock to watch the sunrise, and when the alarm went off about 05.30, we were very pleased to have had the extra lie in. The sun was, in fact, just rising over the roofs of the resort rooms as we got up, in rich hues of yellows and oranges, so we did sort of see a sunrise, but from the comfort of our bed.

We had been told that breakfast here was scrummy, and that wasn’t wrong – lots of fresh fruit, a wide range of cooked breakfast, and good breads and croissants. As we are staying two nights at this resort we shall be able to try all those things we missed today, when we eat tomorrow morning.

We set off at 07.00 to meet all those brave souls who managed to get up and see the sunrise at the rock. They would have been waiting for us for about an hour! And when we arrived they were all huddled in their jackets and windproofs – the morning was quite chilly, with a brisk breeze blowing in from the desert. We started our view of the rock today, with a short trek – only about an hour and a half of gentle walking, and learning about the geology and history associated with the rock.

Ayers Rock is known as Uluru, the Aboriginal name, by most people here. It is the largest “clean skin” monolith in the world – that means the largest rock outcrop with no vegetation growing on it. It is 384 metres high, although the path to the top is one mile long. It is kidney shaped measuring 3.4 kms x 2.4 kms. The eastern end is the oldest part of the rock, being formed about 600 million years ago. Layers of sediment of sand, feldspar (an iron deposit) and pebbles, were laid down when the sea covered this area, and as the waters receded, the sediments hardened into rocks known as ‘Arcos’ or coarse grain sandstone. This process continued over 300 million years, so that lots of layers or strata were laid down. Then about 300 million years ago there was a major tectonic plate movement of the earth, which threw these strata up in the air through 90 degress, so that the layers that can be seen today run vertically. No one is sure how far the rock goes down into the ground, but it is thought it could be as much as 2 kms. The surface appears a red/terracotta colour, but this is the iron minerals “rusting” and just below the surface the rock is grey. The surface is also “flaky”, looking a lot like ‘shot’ plaster, and can easily be peeled off. When tapped it sounds hollow.

In 1920, the Government set aside an area of 500 square miles around the rock, to be a reserve for the Aboriginal people. In the early 1950’s this area was declared a National Park, and in 1970 the nearby Olga Mountains were added. In 1983 Uluru (Ayers Rock) was given back to the Aborigines, and in 1985 the whole park was given back to Aboriginal control with an agreement that the Government would lease it back, but all decisions about the area would be made jointly between the Government and the Leaders of the Aborigines. Part of the agreement was that some sacred places around the rock would not be open to the public and others were not to be photographed. This agreement is still in force today. There are notices around asking that the public do not climb the rock – it is very steep and several people have fallen to their deaths – one as recently as a few months ago (a man thought he saw his coach leaving and started to run, slipped and fell). The sides of the rock are mostly about 60 – 80 degrees perpendicular, but the path goes up at the only point where it is about 30 degrees, although it is still very smooth rock, with few footholds. The path is often closed, due to rain, or very high temperatures, or as today, high winds. There was a welcome breeze blowing around the base, but 1500 feet up, this breeze would be much stronger.

We walked around the rock in two places and saw wave caves, where erosion has worn away long narrow caves at the base, looking like a surf wave, large round holes going into the rock, known as ‘mole’ holes, and examples of aboriginal art. There are a few water holes, formed as water tumbles down gullies in the rock which are marked by black streak deposits. The composition of the rock does not absorb any water, so in heavy rainfall, these gullies are like waterfalls. Animals would not use the same pools as people, so indigenous aborigines would drink from some pools, while the animals would use others.

We heard about the legends of the aboriginal people based around four ‘totems’. – a Kuniya (half woman and half large python snake) had been killed by a Liru (half man and half brown snake) near Eldunda (where we had lunch yesterday) after which all the Liru fled. One Kuniya went to the rock and laid her eggs, which were saturated with poison and infested some of the local plants, so that later aborigines will not tough such plants as ‘fig bush’ because they believe they are still poisoned. Another tale says that the two snakes fought, and the Liru was speared twice by a Kuniya, the second strike was fatal, and the two snakes can be seen etched into the rocks still, together with the Liru’s fallen shield.

Another ‘totem is the Bellbird (half human, half bird) who speared an emu, which ran away. A Lizardman (half human half lizard creature) captured the injured emu, cut it up and lit a fire to cook it. The Bellbird man saw the fire but when quizzed the Lizardman denied seeing the emu . The Bellbird man later realized he had been tricked and returned to hunt the Lizardman, who had hidden up on the rock, and the black streaks (where water falls down the rock) are the remains of the skin of the lizard man).

Another ‘totem’ is the ‘Malu” is half man and half wallaby. He climbed to the top of the rock with his big stick which he stuck in the ground and danced around it. A ‘Mulga seedman’ came and asked the Malu to come and join in his celebrations, but he refused because his stick in the ground couldn’t be moved. The Mulga summoned the Capani (a huge black dog) who caused havoc amongst the Malu, who then fled to South Australia.

Over 178 species of birds and 400 different trees and plants can be found in the Park. The top of Ayers Rock undulates and rock pools form when there is heavy rain. The eggs of shield shrimps, that may have laid up there for seven or more years, since the last rains, hatch in the water. They are very small fluorescent green, lobster-shape creatures. As the water recedes or evaporates, they lay more eggs and die – life expectancy is around one month – and the cycle begins again, as the eggs wait for the rains to hatch. A species of frog burrow in the ground, and only come to the surface when the rains come, when they will find food and mate. A few dingos can still be found around here now, but they are not “true dingos”, being interbred with other dogs (the only “true dingoes” are found on Hamilton Island). Wild camels still exist, but the numbers are declining. There are honey ants and witchetty grubs amongst the hundreds of insects.

We visited the Cultural Centre where much of the aboriginal culture was related in pictures and films, with many artifacts and locally made crafts on sale alongside the usual souvenirs and postcards. It was all roomed in large round wooden huts, built in aboriginal style.

We returned to the hotel, where I was at last able to post several entries on the blog.

At 13.25 we had to be in Reception to meet the guide taking us to the airfield for our helicopter ride over the Rock and the Olga mountains nearby. We were riding with Roy and Brigitte who now live in Dorset, although have been Berlin residents for many years. We had our safety briefing on the way. I was surprised to see a Quantas plane being serviced at the airport. There were also a few fixed wing airplanes doing similar tours to ours, but flying at a higher altitude. We waited about five minutes while the helicopters came in to land from the previous flights, giving a chance of a few close up piccys.

We had been warned to duck our heads under the large rotors still spinning. Our pilot welcomed us aboard, as Colin and I took our seats on either side in the back. The engine whirred noisily and slowly we lifted off, wobbling a bit from side to side, up, up in the air. Then we banked steeply round (oooohh – it was like the roller coaster ride in Hong Kong) and we were on our way to Ayers Rock. We were flying between 500 and 600 metres above the ground, and as we flew over our hotel, we could see people sitting around the pool. Onward around the rock, a red gleaming edifice, protruding from an area of red desert, spotted with trees and bushes, in various shades of green, we could see the undulating surface, the large ravines and gulleys, and appreciate the size of the monolith. Flying directly over the top is not allowed, so we flew around both sides, so everyone could take photos. We then banked again, turning for the Olga Mountains, about twenty kilometers away. These mountains were formed in the same way as Ayers Rock, but the sediments were different, large pebbles and rocks, melded together with a clay mud. When the earth moved, these rocks only turned 30 degrees instead of 90, and consequently the layers of solidified sediments shattered apart with the force of the movement, instead of staying whole. There are steep sided gorges and canyons, penetrating the range and lots of large rocky outcrops. The mountains occupy a much larger area than Ayers Rock, totaling about 900 square kilometrres. They are 9.5 kms long and 24 kms round, with 36 separate domes. Although first found by Edward Jones on his way through from Adelaide to Alice Springs, it was William Goss who named the range, after the Governor’s daughter, Olga, as he explored the western area around Lake Amadeus and Kings Canyon. He also named Mount Knee and Mount Wulpau. There is lots of vegetation growing between the rocks, including the Desert Oak tree, whose root system travels two to three times longer than the highest branch. It has thick bark, which protects it from the sun and long prickly fronds and the fruit is inedible. Many marsupials live in this area, but about 90% are nocturnal and a few wild Afghan camels still survive.

We banked and turned again to make a return journey, again flying close to Ayers Rock and over the hotel area, and the old Ayers Rock resort, which was taken over by the Aborigines at the time of the handover in 1985.

We returned to the airfield having thoroughly enjoyed another first – a ride in a helicopter. We both agreed that the helicopter seemed to chug along fairly slowly, but in fact we were traveling about 90 mph! You have a magnificent all round view whilst up in the air and it enables you appreciate the size and impact of the rocks on the area. I would not hesitate to take another ride.

Back at the hotel, we had about an hour to have a late lunch before meeting for a walk in the Olgas – we had been warned to take our walking shoes as the route was rocky, which was true. Since we have been in Australia, flies have become a “bigger” problem each day. These little creatures fly in your face or crawl over your arms and legs, and are buzzing around everywhere you go. The further we go north, the more flies we encounter. We have been told that the flies may be even worse daily we need a hat and flynet for when we walk. So today I bought a hat! Hats and me are not the best combination, but needs must, and I am now the proud possessor of a “bush’womans’” hat, complete with brightly coloured bandana, and a flynet. I will wear anything that keeps those flies out of my eyes.

We arrived at an opening in the mountains and clambered over a very uneven surface along a gorge, with steep flat sides, and very little signs of erosion. These ‘walls’ reached up to 500 metres, taller than Ayers Rock, and felt quite constricting. Black streaks again marked the watercourses, and areas of wild flowers, bushes and small trees interspersed the rocky walkway. The end of the walk, a little over a mile away, was disappointing. A large wooden viewing platform that allowed you to see back out the way you had come, over the plain. Forwards the way was blocked by huge boulders, piled up to form a barrier about thirty feet tall. We all trudged back along the pathway to the coach, and we were off to the sunset, over the Olgas tonight.

The sky was very cloudy overhead, but in the distance, near the horizon, was a band of clear blue sky. The champagne and nibbles were unloaded again, and transported up the walkway till we had a clear sight of the mountains – not interrupted by trees and bushes. It was about 18.30 by now and we could see the sun trying to peek out from behind the clouds. None of us expected to see anything spectacular tonight as, the mountains looked a matt dark reddy brown colour. But Ruben, told us to wait twenty minutes or so and we might be lucky, as the sun hit the low clear sky. And he was right! The sun slowly dropped from the overhead cloud, and the horizon lit up in brilliant golds and yellows, while the rays reflected off the mountains, and they became a dazzling bright red on the exposed surfaces, with deep, black shadows, in the crevices. It was, even more stunning than yesterday evening. There were lots of ooohs and aaahs, as the sun moved lower towards the horizon and the rays become even more intense. For about twenty minutes this extravaganza continued (while we sipped fizzy), until the sun slipped down, and finally disappeared, and the mountains slowly returned to their matt terracotta colour. We had certainly experienced an incredible sight – I just hope the piccys turn out as good (the stills camera is playing up with moving lines flashing across the screen a lot of the time, so I think we will be looking for a replacement soon).

It was nearly dark as we boarded the coach once more, to go to an Australian barbeque. The ride was nearly 40 minutes away, and to maintain the high spirits of the sunset experience, Ruben played a singalong tape, which everyone joined in. When we turned off the main road, everything was pitch black, and it was difficult to see anything outside the coach as we bumped along this small track, over what I presume was rumble strips. We arrived at the designated spot – lit by a few arc lights (with blue ground lights marking the way to the loos), where we were greeted with another glass of fizzy. There were about 9 long tables set out with benches, with a battery operated hurricane lamp on each. (A patio heater was standing nearby, so perhaps sometimes the temperature drops lower than the top 20’s it was tonight). There were two other coaches visiting the site – one with a group of Japanese tourists and the other with a varied ethnic group like ours. A lady introduced the evening, and soon waitresses were coming round to refill our glasses. It was then our turn to visit the barbeque and select from a variety of salads and collect our choice of food (we had had to choose this yesterday) – I had chosen steak – again – and they were large plump rib-eyes – sadly all cooked medium, but if cooking for lots of people, it has to be acceptable to all. We were also given a ‘dollop’ of fried onions, a large Australian sausage and a skewer containing chunks of kangaroo! The food was all very tasty, even though we were plagued by one particular large moth (which we captured under an upturned glass, while eating and released when all the food was gone) and an army of small ants – running back and forth along the table, in a frenzy of activity – I am not quite sure where they were headed, but they just keep running up and down the wooden slats. All the time our glasses were refilled as soon as they were put down. After all this food, Anzac biscuits were handed round– an oatmeal cookie style biscuit, held together with golden syrup (known here as cocky’s joy?). Colin had a couple and declared them good. It was then time to return to the coach and the hotel. We didn’t quite have a Bonfire Night celebration here (private people are banned from purchasing fireworks in all states except Canberra) but we did have a large log fire and a bright full moon shining brightly as it passed in and out of the clouds, although we couldn’t see too many stars. I am still trying to identify the Southern Cross.

I had intended to write this blog when we got back to the room, but first Colin needed to download both the stills camera and his camcorder. The stills were successful, but when it came to the video, the Thai Shite flashed up “memory full”. Oh no! We still had all the piccys saved that we had sent home to Nick on disk, and all the blog entries saved, so we got busy deleting as many files as possible to make way for new material. We still need to download some more piccys to disk, to free up even more space, but there was enough space for what we needed now. It was then time for bed – we had been burning the midnight candle again. It was lucky we were due for a lie in tomorrow, with departure planned for 09.30.

We have now been in Australia a week, and covered several thousand kilometers and had some great experiences. The country is vast and although we have traveled long stretches where the scenery appears the same, it has been very interesting, as Ruben has told us history and anecdotes of the localities and kept us amused. So far – for the seven nights we have eaten dinner here - I have had veal (young cow) one night, beefburger one night (old cow), and Aussie steak for five nights, so it has been a bit of a beefy diet so far. But I have really enjoyed the food, it has been really tasty. Perhaps when we get to the east coast, I will change my diet to seafood!